January 15, 2008
Today was very special. I awoke to the magnificent ocean view. It was a little overcast, but that was nice for the contrast of scenery and seeing all the features out of the surrounding mountains. Plus it meant it wouldn't be as hot as yesterday! I went upstairs to breakfast, which was served by Terrence, one of the owners. There was a little table set up for me at the window of their living room closest to the water. There was a service tray beside the table that had muesli, milk, and yogurt. He served me a beautiful plate of fruit including mango, lychee, banana slices, grapes, and berries. Fresh toast and a croissant arrived, so I could sample some of the jams and honey that was set on the table. I guessed the night before that there would be some new and strange egg dish served, and I knew that I was obliged to eat it. After 12+ hours of mental preparation, I was presented with a porcelain 'urn' with a silver twist cap and a little side of salt. It was a very cute little salt shaker like you'd see in a dollhouse, and a very nice touch. Terrence explained this coddled egg was an English specialty, and there was cream, butter, and cheese with the cracked egg. The 'urn' is sealed and boiled in water for about ten minutes. Though scared (terrified) I proceeded to consume it, and it actually wasn't bad. The elaborate portion of salt helped it go down nicely.Terrence and I chatted as I ate, and I felt like royalty. This is a great place to stay!!!
I then putzed around for a while waiting for Julia and Louise. We headed out to the city center of Cape Town, and I was taken by the beauty and multiple dynamics of the place on the way there. Very wealthy areas, very poor areas. It truly seems to be multiple universes taking up the same physical space. Then shopping along Long Street was nice. Several stores require you to ring the bell for the gate to be unlocked. Others have loud music like a club. Music was abound and contributed to a very comfortable atmosphere. There were so many people of so many backgrounds walking all over. Quite remarkable. We eventually went over toward Green Market square, taking a detour from Long Street to run a parallel path. We took a quick break to drink water about a block after we turned to the parallel path. As we started walking again we heard a tremendous disturbance behind us. We turned back to see what the excitement was, and the entire main road was full of marching, shouting, black protesters heading toward city hall. Julia said that happens every day, numb to it after working downtown for four years. We proceeded to the market and bartered for several items. I immediately bought a blue necklace with a glass inlay that looks like a crashing wave. It was a successful excursion and quite refreshing to have the driving force to buy or not buy be the ability to transport the item rather than the ability to pay cash for the item. Walking through the rows of kiosks, I witnessed public child abuse as one vendor gave her toddler repeated lashings as it wailed and screamed, “No! Stop! Owie! Mommy, no!” It felt like I was the only person aware of it yet it was so public and vivid. I kept walking.
We went to an internet cafe, which was slow and rather strict. We could barely log into our email before Julia showed up with the car. Then off to a gorgeous dinner with Louise as Julia and Peter enjoyed their last date before marriage. Louise and I had a blast at a beautiful waterfront restaurant, Harbour House, discovering how much we have in common and how much we love to travel and experience cultures and things. It was great fun. The restaurant was remarkably perfect. We had to wait in the bar for a table with a view to open up. The alternative was staring at the parking lot as rain poured down (no, thanks. I can do that at home.) In the bar there were soft dark brown leather sofas, glass tables, sculptures, and a very attentive staff. When someone would get up, the staff would immediately smooth the cushions and match up the corners of the white cotton blankets that were set on them. We were seated at a second row table, where we saw seals splashing in the water and watched the sun set. I had a calamari appetizer followed by fresh swordfish, vegetables, and a hint of a potato side. The presentation and preparation were impeccable. Julia and Peter joined us near the end of our meal and had some wine before bringing me back here to the guest house. At the end of this first day, I am seduced. This place is so intriguing and beautiful it would take years to fully absorb even a portion of its dynamics and realities. Since it is so dynamic, that portion would never be dreadfully large. Much more to learn. Tomorrow morning I will be awoken by the Former family upon their arrival from Germany at 6 am or so. Very early, so I'm off to sleep.
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